Spring Break 2024 began with an eager rush to depart south as quickly as possible. As soon as school let out for the day, the family loaded up our trusty Toyota and began our journey to the swamplands.
DAY 1: Travel Day (to Perryville, MO)
We loaded up and made it out of northern Illinois just in time!
Pictured: The Johnsons embarking on their road trip.
We began our road trip with Perryville, MO as our first stop for the night. We made it to Perryville at 9:30pm and learned that the St. Patrick's Day parade we were hoping to watch on Day 3 of our trip was canceled as a result of the anticipated inclement weather. Augie was devastated, as I had been making huge promises about what a New Orleans parade was like, so I used our wind down time in the hotel to start searching for alternate options. I happened upon the St. Joseph's Day Parade, but it would mean covering 600 miles and making it to our hotel before 6pm the next day...the Johnsons were up for the challenge.
DAY 2: Travel Day (to New Orleans, LA)
With a timed goal in mind, we hit the road by 8:30am and only made THREE stops before checking into our hotel at 5:45pm...15 minutes to unload the car, move the car to the parking garage, and walk to the parade route.
We totally nailed it.
We staked out a spot on Chartres Street, mere steps from our hotel, where I was able to watch my children engage in a New Orleans parade in the French Quarter and get caught up in the frenzy to catch throws.
Pictured: Harper hoping to catch her first NOLA throw!
We watched nearly two hours of the parade (with no end in sight!) before Augie began BEGGING for dinner (to his credit, it was nearly 8pm and we hadn't eaten real food all day). We dropped off our parade swag at the hotel and decided to walk the two blocks to a restaurant I had been recommended by an Insta teacher I follow who visited NOLA earlier this year.
Pictured: The Johnson family with some of their their St. Joseph's Day parade swag.
We walked to Trenasse, located in the central business district, and had no wait, and were seated almost immediately, which I thought was pretty great for a Saturday night on St. Patrick's Day weekend! Harper ordered the Blue Crab Bisque, Toby ordered the Gulf to Table Fish (Mahi Mahi), I got the Shrimp & Grits, and Augie got chicken tenders and fries from the children's menu, but he also ordered Fowl Gumbo to at least get a taste of NOLA.
Pictured: Heather's shrimp and grits (and oysters!) before being absolutely devoured!
The food was absolutely delicious, and while that would have been enough of a perfect way to end the day, I demanded that we go on a quest to find beignets before heading to bed. We were in for a treat, as Hot Benny's was located just by our hotel, thus allowing us a quick stop for an order before tucking in from a long day of travel.
Pictured: Heather showing a beignet some love!
A delightful sidebar is how empty this lovely stop was, especially as we had the entire courtyard to ourselves. Ambiance 10/10 (especially at night), beignets 7/10 (they were smaller than what I'm used to), but a perfect 10/10 way to end this first night in NOLA!
Pictured: The courtyard fountain located outside Hot Benny's.
DAY 3: New Orleans, LA
We woke up to torrential rain. The kind of rain that can ruin a day of vacation, but not for the Johnsons. We opted to eat the free hotel breakfast instead of going to the Ruby Slipper or Mother's, even though both would have been incredible. We were looking to minimize our time in the rain, as it was relentless. We decided to drive toward Cafe du Monde to see if the crowds were deterred by the rain...they weren't. So instead of standing in the rain, we drove to Mardi Gras World to take a tour there instead. Unfortunately, there is very little parking available near the warehouse, and the rain was seriously unrelenting, so Toby dropped the kids and I at the door and said he'd find parking...nearly half a mile away! I bought tickets (they gave me student pricing because I'm a teacher...when they ask if anyone is military, I always answer honestly, but I quickly ask if they give teacher discounts, and I almost always get one!).
Pictured: The Johnson family dodging raindrops inside Mardi Gras World.
We made it for the 11am tour, starting with a short video, followed by a piece of King Cake! No one in our tour group found the baby, but every child got a crown before heading into the warehouse ❤️. The tour is guided, but there is ample time to touch, explore, and walk around this massive facility. Wear appropriate footwear, and understand you are in a work zone, as it is dirty (and was rainy). However, it was so amazing to learn about these incredibly intricate parade floats and get to see and touch them up close!
Pictured: Augie crying in fear from encountering Audrey 2 (who just got done shopping?)
By the time we finished up taking pictures, the rain had stopped, so we were able to walk the half mile back to the car without navigating the wind and rain. We drove back down to the French Quarter, parked, grabbed umbrellas, and walked to Cafe du Monde, where we waited a mere 15 minutes while it sprinkled on and off before indulging in the NUMBER ONE beignets we sampled on this trip.
Pictured: The Johnson family wait their turn to enjoy beignets at Cafe du Monde.
Pictured: Augie has fun with the powered sugar from his beignet and cafe au lait.
We got two orders of beignets (they come in threes) and cafe au lait. This is a CASH ONLY facility, so not only are you waiting in line and eating outdoors, you must have cash. There is an ATM across the street, which Toby ran to after we ordered, but this was a MUST stop. It is NOT a tourist trap. These were the BEST beignets we ate on the entire trip. It's a must-do experience. The line moves quickly, and the beignets are well worth it!
It wasn't raining too hard, and we were so close, so we decided to walk along the French Market and explore the food offerings (because we hadn't yet had lunch), as well as the wares available for sale. The French Market is the equivalent of Quincy Market in Boston or Findlay Market in Cincinnati. Harper found a shirt, Augie found Lego mini figs, and Toby and I soaked it all in. However, I knew I was going to have to find food quickly, since it was nearly 2pm. We decided to forego traditional Louisiana food and opt for our Johnson tradition of eating pizza in a new state together. We got two pizzas just around the corner at the Louisiana Pizza Kitchen. We enjoyed a nice lunch, but our parking meter was about to expire, so it was time to call it and get to our cemetery tour.
Pictured: Voodoo Queen Marie LaVeau's grave at St. Louis Cemetery no. 1
At this point, we were paying for parking AGAIN at the Basin Street Station, the starting point for our St. Louis Cemetery no. 1 tour. However, there weren't a lot of other options worth considering, as the rain was picking up...again. We got to the station, where I absolutely failed to check in at the appropriate desk, thus necessitating a sprint back to the station when I wasn't going to be admitted at the cemetery gates...It all worked out, and we enjoyed a guided tour through a storied NOLA cemetery, learning about their unique structure, as well as some of their famous residents: Marie LaVeau, Homer Plessy, and Nicholas Cage...
This tour was well worth the stop, as it highlighted the history of the city, alongside the religious and racial and geographic histories that create such a powerful cultural experience that is New Orleans. After our tour ended, we decided to head back to the lot we parked in earlier in the afternoon to spend more time wandering the French Quarter. We took the kids down Pirate's Alley, walked through Jackson Square, stopped and took one picture on the corner of Bourbon Street, and decided to eat dinner at Deanie's where I last had dinner in 2008 with a friend from long ago.
Pictured: Heather and the kids on the corner of Bourbon and St. Louis Streets--the closest the kids got to anywhere else on Bourbon!
Pictured: The Johnson kids outside Deanie's!
We had a great walk and were plenty hungry by the time we sat down to dinner. Harper ordered the Taste of Deanie's Sample Trio of Soups (seafood okra, crawfish étouffée, and crawfish bisque), Augie ordered the Half Seafood Platter, Heather ordered the Caesar salad, and Toby ordered nothing, knowing Augie would have plenty to share. We all ate off everyone's plates, and enjoyed different elements of each dish!
We wandered back along Royal Street and stopped in to Reverend Zombie's House of Voodoo. Royal Street is a gorgeous street full of artwork, vintage stores, and beautiful cafes. Our meandering walk brought us past several tarot card readers and mediums, and we thought it would be fun to get into the spirit, so Toby had his cards read by a (probably tipsy) woman at a card table in Jackson Square. I won't divulge the details of his reading, but we all got a kick out of it...except Augie, who was dismayed that we spent any amount of money on a scam like that!
As we made our way back to our car (whose parking meter as running precariously low), we stumbled into another parade; however, we were unable to leave the parking lot since the parade was going to go right by. At this point, we all needed to use the facilities, and there were none nearby. We tried Walgreens, and the shops across the street, but everything was locked. The hostess at Landry's took pity on my children and we were able to use those bathrooms before finding a good place to watch the Downtown Irish Club St. Patrick's Day Parade!
Pictured: Augie in his swag from the Downtown Irish Club parade
We watched the entire parade and captured far too many throws, and ended our first full day in the Big Easy full of seafood and cultural experiences!
DAY 4: New Orleans, LA
Yes. Everything above was one day. Vacations with me are NOT for the weak!
We had a hotel breakfast again and had a leisurely morning before heading out around 10:30am for our Steamboat Natchez Jazz River Cruise with lunch. The calliope guided us to the lighthouse ticket booth, where I checked in and we got in line. We were hardly in line a minute before boarding the boat.
Pictured: The Johnson family aboard the Steamboat Natchez.
This is a two-hour tour, so plan accordingly. We opted for the second lunch seating, giving us time to explore the boat, including the engine room. We wandered all over and then sat for the second lunch seating and thoroughly enjoyed the live jazz music and our meal. This was probably my favorite meal of our entire trip. Every family member loved it, and there was so much food offered!
Pictured: a delicious meal of fried catfish, red beans & rice, cornbread, étouffée, coleslaw and bread pudding
After our river cruise, we took pedicabs to Musical Legends Park to enjoy live music and beignets on Bourbon Street, a place I had last been in 2009 with Toby. Our return was 15 years in the making!
Pictured: Augie and Heather riding a pedicab through the French Quarter
Pictured: The Johnson family outside Musical Legends Park
We ordered beignets (again...) from Cafe Beignet, located in the park, and we were sorely disappointed. While they tasted yummy, they didn't hold a candle to Cafe du Monde (or Hot Benny's).
Pictured: Two orders of disappointing beignets (don't be fooled...we ate it all)
After filling our bellies, we thought it best to drive to the Garden District to take our own walking tour of the rich and famous. Parking was easy to find, and we probably could have joined a tour group without anyone noticing, as there were so many! We saw Sandra Bullock's House, John Goodman's House, Anne Rice's former house, among others. The extravagantly beautiful homes were what I fell in love with the first time I visited the city so long ago.
Pictured: Toby outside John Goodman's New Orleans home
After touring the Garden District, we headed back for some down time at the hotel before heading to the historic Saenger Theater to watch Jim Gaffigan.
Pictured: The Johnson family outside the Saenger Theater
Pictured: The Johnson family in the stunning Saenger Theater
The kids enjoyed their first comedian, and we laughed and appreciated the beauty of this historic theater. However, it was nearly 9pm, and we hadn't eaten dinner, so on our walk back to our hotel, we spotted Willie's Pizza Joint, which served pizza by the slice, allowing us a quick bite to eat before turning in for the night.
DAY 5: New Orleans, LA --> Baton Rouge, LA
This was the day we had to say goodbye to NOLA, and one of the trickiest scheduling days, as I had purchased tickets to visit Avery Island, but I also wanted to make several additional stops before turning in for the night in Baton Rouge. We made sure we were at the New Orleans Jazz National Park when it opened at 9:30am. I wanted to explore this National Park Service site, as well as give my kids an opportunity to become Junior Rangers in a new park.
Pictured: The Johnson kids work on becoming junior rangers at the New Orleans Jazz Park and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Preserve.
Not only were the kids able to earn their junior ranger badge, learning about jazz music in New Orleans, but they also earned their junior ranger badge through the Jean Lafitte National Historic Preserve, as they learned how the Mississippi River impacted settlements and trade along the bayous and river basin over time. When the kids had finished exploring and earning badges, we made a quick exit toward Baldwin, the tiny town that made me fall in love with the swamplands in the first place.
Pictured: Toby and the Johnson kids in quiet reflection along the Bayou Teche.
In 2005, I made my way to Baldwin to volunteer at UMCOR's Sager Brown campus with my grandparents and other members of my church. I was hooked. I made my way back down in 2008 with a friend, and for the final time in 2009 with Toby. I was verklempt, walking back on campus, showing the kids the dorms, the dining hall, the many places where I worked, prayed, served others, and found my faith in a time of trial.
Pictured: Augie walking through the massive depot, trying to count flood buckets.
UMCOR holds a special place in my heart, and to be able to show the kids the church's greater mission to serving others was so magical. One of the volunteers we met said it best: "It's like summer camp for adults!" He's not wrong. To spend a week using your hands to touch something that will change someone else's life, alongside strangers who become fast friends, is such a terrific experience. I'm so glad we were able to make this stop with the kids.
Pictured: The Johnson kids and Toby touring the Tabasco Factory on Avery Island.
We made it perfectly on time to get a full tour of the Tabasco Factory on Avery Island after leaving the UMCOR campus. The smell is one that I did NOT forget, and it was so fun to watch the kids' faces as their noses found the smell of vinegar and fermenting peppers!
Pictured: Harper trying strawberry chipotle ice cream.
We got a chance to visit the Tabasco store, use the facilities, sample some Tabasco products, including a strawberry chipotle ice cream and salsa product. Once we finished up at the factory, it was time to tour the stunning Jungle Gardens.
Pictured: Toby and Augie on the bridge in the Jungle Gardens.
The kids saw their first alligator, as well as took in the scenery that has been captured in photographs above my bed for the past sixteen years! We loved making stops along the way, spying alligators, beautiful birds, and incredible foliage.
Pictured: Harper & Augie at Bird City at the Jungle Gardens.
Avery Island was scheduled to be closing, and we still had a nearly two-hour drive to Baton Rouge. We hit the road and managed to cross the Mississippi River for the zillionth time this trip, navigating our way through the state capitol to our spacious and oh so clean hotel along the river. The sun was setting, and I still wanted to try and see Mike the Tiger in his habitat at LSU, so we forced the kids back into the car to check out the campus.
Pictured: Toby and the kids outside the tiger habitat at LSU.
We didn't see Mike, but we did walk up to the quad, and marveled at the beauty of this massive college campus. It was absolutely southern and lovely in a million ways, but once again, I had pressed my luck, and I needed to find my kids dinner. We asked two students walking by, and they suggested Torchy's Tacos. When we hopped in the car to make the short drive to Torchy's, the low tire pressure light was on, so Toby left to fill the tire, and the kids and I ordered food.
Pictured: The Johnson family on the quad at Louisiana State University in Baton Rogue.
We ate devilishly delicious tacos and queso and crossed our fingers that our low tire pressure was a fluke.
DAY 6: Baton Rouge, LA --> Kosciusko, MS
The low tire pressure was NOT a fluke, dear readers. We had a serious flat on our hands, so it was imperative that we find a place to repair our tire before making our way 900+ miles north.
Fortunately, there was a tire shop around the corner, and they got us in right away with a patch, and we were on the road far later than we had wanted, but we were determined to make it work.
[Intended] Stop #1 for the day was The Myrtles Plantation in St. Francisville, LA. This was a Harper request, as she had watched a spooky YouTuber relay the haunting story of strange occurrences there.
Pictured: A mirror that never stays clean...creepy.
This was a relatively quick stop, as an old plantation that doubles as a B&B isn't too spooky during the day! However, our next stop was just around the corner in the same town: Rosedown Plantation. At this point, it is imperative to relay that the incredible wealth on these properties was only made possible at the sacrifice of Black bodies who were enslaved and forced to work in often horrendous conditions at the whims of their white enslavers. Rosedown's history is no different.
Pictured: The Johnsons on the balcony at Rosedown Plantation in St. Francisville, LA.
We listened carefully to see how much of that history was relayed in the tour, and while much of the focus was on the house and its innovations and stunning wealth at the time, attempts were made to ensure that the history of enslavement was mentioned. I try to be mindful of how I spend my money at sites like these, and I was impressed by the effort to tell the whole history...even though it is ugly.
Pictured: The Johnson kids framed by Spanish moss on live oaks at Rosedown Plantation.
Can you even fathom this being the view from your front porch?
While Toby and the kids were very impressed by Rosedown, I knew that this particular home didn't hold a candle to Longwood Plantation in Natchez, MS. The story of what happened to this architectural masterpiece is a stark reminder of the way the south is sometimes frozen in time in regard to the Civil War.
Pictured: The Johnson family at Longwood Plantation in Natchez, MS
I won't spoil it for you, but it is well worth the visit if you find yourself in Natchez.
Pictured: The Johnson family on the main floor of Longwood, overlooking the hand-dug pond.
We had one last stop in Natchez to become junior rangers at the Natchez National Historic Park-Melrose Visitor Center. While we didn't tour the home (four plantation homes in one day was sufficient), we were able to wander the grounds and apply our knowledge about the Natchez Trace and these storied homes to our learning at this NPS site.
Pictured: The Johnson kids earning their third junior ranger badge of the trip.
We loaded up the car and opted to not drive the Natchez trace at night with a potentially bad tire, and wove our way farther north to Kosciusko, MS, where Toby had a mini-reunion with his mom's cousin, bringing him a huge mental hug, as it has been many years since we last visited. We enjoyed giggles and the comfort of family before tucking in for the night.
DAY 7: Kosciusko, MS --> Sikeston, MO
After a day of driving, we were worried about the tire, but she held strong, and we prepared to embark on a significant leg of our journey home. We had a noon reservation for Graceland, so we headed north, not quite knowing what to expect. I started second-guessing myself, thinking I should have made reservations for farther north, that I was silly to have a stop so soon on the way home. I could not have anticipated spending THREE hours at an attraction for a pop star I really don't love!
Pictured: The Johnson family outside of Graceland mansion.
What I didn't expect was how immersive and MASSIVE these grounds would be. The tour of the home itself was like walking into a time machine. To be preserved this well since 1977, especially in light of the relative youth of the megastar who inhabited these halls, was absolutely wild.
Pictured: The Johnson girls outside the famed Jungle Room
Every single detail in this relatively modest mansion SCREAMED superstar and wealth and extravagance. The personal tastes of Elvis (and probably Priscilla) were apparent everywhere you looked. It was so much fun to walk through. After our house tour, we visited some of the many displays back at the main entrance, including a display with Elvis's cars, a display about Elvis's military history, as well as a display about those who were influenced by the King and who the King influenced.
Pictured: The Johnson children reminding all visitors that you cannot sit or touch the furniture in the Lisa Marie airplane.
We decided it would be fun to eat in Gladys' Diner, where I ordered a grilled peanut butter banana sandwich. Toby and Harper held out hope for a milkshake, and Augie got a hot dog. The overall experience was "meh," as the food was okay, and expensive, and took FOREVER to order. We picked out our trinkets and crossed the Mississippi yet another time in Memphis as we crossed over into Missouri. Our home for the night was a hotel we've stayed in before, and it was probably the best (only above our stay in Baton Rouge) for cleanliness, value, and the delicious breakfast and evening snacks.
Pictured: The Johnsons at Lambert's Cafe in Sikeston, MO
The primary reason I picked Sikeston as our resting place was because it's home to Lambert's Cafe. We have been to Lambert's with the kids before, and it's such a fun experience. We walked in with no wait (!) and ordered a delicious final meal of the trip, as we would be at home the next day.
DAY 7: Sikeston, MO --> HOME!
We started our day at the World's Largest Chess Piece in St. Louis, MO. This is in a neighborhood we have not yet explored, but we will most certainly be coming back, as it was quaint and oh so delightful!
Pictured: Augie with the World's Largest Chess Piece, St. Louis, MO
From there, we headed back toward the river to pick up that pesky final National Park passport book stamp at Gateway Arch National Park.
Pictured: The Johnson kids stamping their passport books.
Pictured: The Johnson family outside the St. Louis arch for the millionth time!
We snapped our pics, Augie rolled and ran up and down the grassy hill under the arch, and we loaded up for a quick trip north to Alton, IL, another Harper requested stop: The Mineral Springs Hotel. Once again, this was based on the same YouTubers, who visited this spooky site.
Pictured: Harper outside the famed Mineral Springs Hotel.
While we didn't see anything supernatural, we were able to visit a creepy museum there, buy some yummy scented soaps, stop in a vintage store, and meander the main street. It was quaint and not very creepy...but we weren't there long!
Pictured: The Johnson boys with a life sized statue of the world's tallest man--Robert Wadlow
While in Alton, it is only right to pay our respects to the world's tallest man, who also hailed from this city. We had fun trying on his chair and seeing how we sized up next to this giant man.
At this point, we were so close to home, it was time to focus on the task at hand, but not without one last stop to see the World's Largest Rail Splitter Wagon...a real hoot and not very impressive when you're fighting the cold and road trip exhaustion.
Pictured: Toby and Harper (and a reading Abe Lincoln) in front of the World's Largest Rail Splitter Wagon in Lincoln, IL.
We made this our final stop, grabbed a bite to eat, and dodged raindrops as we made the last leg of our journey.
This road trip was everything I love about wandering our country: the sites, the food, the laughter and inside jokes. However, I PUSHED my family to their absolute limit, and I probably shouldn't have opted for hotels with prime downtown locations, as it meant we had ZERO time apart, which was a lot to ask of my teen and preteen. All in all, everyone had a good time, and it truly was the perfect good, old-fashioned road trip, but I am exhausted...until our next journey ;)
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