The day after school let out in May, our family loaded up the car and headed west for an epic all-American road trip (in the middle of a pandemic...). School starts on Monday, so I suppose it's high time I review our trip!
Day 1: Travel Day (to Mitchell, SD)
We loaded up and made it out of northern Illinois right on time.
Pictured: The Johnsons embarking on their road trip.
We began our road trip with Mitchell, SD as our first stop for the night. In retrospect, we should have traveled farther (to Chamberlain, SD at least). We made it to Mitchell at 5pm and decided to head over to the World's Only Corn Palace, even though the inside was already closed for the evening..
Pictured: The Johnson family standing outside the World's Only Corn Palace--Mitchell, SD
The corn palace was an impressive structure, and we enjoyed exploring the exterior. We made a plan to begin our day at the Corn Palace in the morning so we could see the inside and check out the gift shop. Those pennies aren't going to press themselves! In the meantime, we wanted to hunt down some dinner. There was a festival going on down the street, so we decided to walk down and check it out. It was a little too people-y for us during a pandemic, so we opted to wear our masks into the restaurant that the Corn Palace street ends at: the Depot.
August ordered a salad, Harper got nachos, I got bison chili, and Toby got some kind of sandwich. It was the first time we ate at a restaurant as a family since March 2020, and we found ourselves a little out of practice and overwhelmed, emotionally. Not only that, but the food was less than impressive, so we were left with an overall feeling of disappointment as we headed back to our hotel. We had high hopes that our morning in Mitchell would be better.
Day 2: Mitchell, SD-Wall, SD
We woke early and headed over to the Corn Palace as it was opening. We checked the calendar and there weren't any events listed, but it looks like it is a fairly hopping event center!
Pictured: Heather, Harper, and August inside the Corn Palace.
We stayed at the Corn Palace for about an hour before taking off toward Chamberlain, SD. Chamberlain has an awesome rest stop that overlooks the Missouri River. It includes short hiking trails, as well as the gorgeous Dignity Statue.
Pictured: August taking a photograph of the Dignity Statue.
Toby, Harper and August posing in front of the Dignity Statue.
After our brief stop to use the facilities, take pictures of the statue, and a short hike, we hopped back in the car to travel to the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site. We walked through a terrifyingly informative display about the missiles and their use during the Cold War. We stamped our NPS passport books and made a note to stop by the actual missile silos the next day.
Pictured: Harper, August and Heather outside the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site.
The excitement began building at this point because after our brief stop at Minuteman we were headed to Badlands National Park. This was the part of the journey I was most excited about, and one that cemented itself as my absolute favorite part of the trip. We arrived at the Badlands around 11am, and we drove 240/The Northern Loop, making stops along the way to hike, visit overlooks, and generally admire the alien landscape. We got in free with the "Every Kid in the Park" pass that was extended to 5th graders this year because of COVID.
The first stop before entering the park was the Prairie Dog town. This was August's favorite part of the trip. Both kids had a ball chasing the p-dogs (as we called them) and watching them snag peanuts.
Pictured: Toby, Harper and August feeding peanuts to prairie dogs.
We spent nearly an hour here, eating a picnic lunch out of our trunk and watching the prairie dogs do their thing. From there, we headed into the Badlands, where we fell in love with the incredible sights and unique terrain.
Pictured: Toby standing at the Big Badlands Overlook.
Pictured: Heather, Harper and August take a break at Door Trail.
Pictured: The Johnson family standing at the end of Window Trail.
Pictured: The Johnson family preparing to hike the Notch Trail.
The stop at Door/Window/Notch trail was our longest. We walked the 1/4 mile boardwalk to Door and Window Trail each, appreciating the views. We didn't explore beyond the end of Door Trail as we were most exited to hike the 1.5 mile (round trip) Notch Trail and the "ladder" that we had been working so hard to build up endurance for!
Pictured: Heather and August make their descent down the ladder at Notch Trail.
Because of the crowds, we scrambled up the side of the ladder and decided that it would be more fun to wait in line and go DOWN the ladder instead of hiking the entire trail. It was well worth the wait! It was a fun experience to be able to scramble to the top then work our way down this infamous ladder!
The biggest regret we have is not hiking all the way to the top of Saddle Pass. It's a 1/4 mile STRENUOUS and steep hike to the top, and we made it about halfway up, but it was hot, and both kids were pretty tired at that point.
Pictured: August enjoying the view from the ...middle...of Saddle Pass!
We did stop at the Ben Reifel Visitor Center, where we stamped our NPS passports, used the facilities, refilled our water bottles with cold water, and grabbed some souvenirs (including pressed pennies!).
Pictured: August, Harper and Heather outside the Ben Reifel Visitor Center at Badlands National Park.
The 240/North Loop has so many breathtaking views, and just when you think it can't get any cooler, the Yellow Mounds appear.
Pictured: The Johnson family standing atop the yellow mounds at Badlands National Park.
This loop is worth the drive again and again. One of the most memorable parts of this trip is when I was planning on stopping at the Badlands NPS sign on the way out for a family picture as we left the park and we were surrounded by bison bulls! Needless to say, their proximity meant we would not be exiting the car for a picture! They were a little too close to be able to do that safely!
Pictured: Bison grazing near the exit of Badlands National Park at the Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.
We ended our day at the Best Western in Wall, SD, where we showered off the dust and dirt and devoured Subway sandwiches to fall asleep with dreams of the gorgeous Badlands landscape.
Day 3: Wall, SD-Rapid City, SD
We awoke with excitement, as our day in the Badlands had us feeling hopeful for continued fun on our journey. We drove to Wall Drug, where we found an excellent parking spot and waited outside the store for it to open. Our plan was to enjoy 5 cent coffee and cinnamon rolls and donuts for breakfast. And by breakfast, I mean a SUGAR RUSH to start the day!
Pictured: A messy tray and table filled with sugar packets and the shrapnel from our donuts and cinnamon roll!
We wandered the drugstore and purchased a few souvenirs. It was full of people and definitely a "tourist trap," but we love kitschy Americana, and this place fit the bill. We made sure to enjoy the free ice water, as advertised!
Pictured: Toby with a jackelope statue at Wall Drug.
Our next stop, after Wall, was Delta 09, the Minuteman Missile Site, but because of COVID (or something else), we were unable to actually access the viewing platform to see the missile. We are going to have to circle back to that another time! After that disappointment, we continued on to Rapid City, SD where our itinerary had us scheduled to visit Reptile Gardens, Dinosaur Park, Storybook Island, and the Chapel in the Hills. It made for a long day, but each stop was well worth it for various reasons.
Reptile Gardens (Rapid City, SD)
Pictured: Harper and August with a giant tortoise!
If traveling with children, Reptile Gardens is a MUST. We purchased our tickets in advance and were able to skip the line and jump right into the park! We fed alligators, pet giant tortoises, and held snakes! It was memorable for all of us.
Dinosaur Park (Rapid City, SD)
Pictured: Harper and August atop a stegosaurus at Dinosaur Park.
This FREE tourist attraction has been open since 1936! While the dinosaurs themselves are showing their age, the views from on top of this cliff are spectacular, and the vintage sculptures are fun to see. The gift shop at the parking lot is where we spent the most money since everything was so reasonably priced. If you're looking for cheap shirts and other souvenirs, this is the gift shop to pop into!
Storybook Island (Rapid City, SD)
Pictured: Heather, August and Harper at the entrance to Storybook Island.
This is another FREE MUST DO if you have small children. It is one of the coolest parks I have ever visited with my kids. It's a great stop to let the kids get their playing done.
Chapel in the Hills (Rapid City, SD)
Pictured: Toby, August and Harper inside Chapel in the Hills.
This was an incredible FREE stop. It was the last place we stopped on this very busy day, and it was well worth our time. This is a gorgeous chapel that is an exact replica of the famous Borgund Stavkirke of Laerdal, Norway. It reminded me of the chapel in the opening sequence of Disney's "Frozen." The outside is gorgeous, and it does offer nightly Vespers if you feel so inclined. We did do the Prayer Walk and Benediction Trail. It was a lovely, peaceful way to end our first evening in Rapid City.
Day 4: Rapid City, SD
To start this fourth day of our SoDak road trip, we woke up early and waited at the gates of Bear Country USA. We didn't purchase advance tickets, but based on all the reviews I read, I knew it would get busy, so we decided to go when it first opened. It. Was. Awesome!
Pictured: August and Harper seated with a bear statue at Bear Country USA.
This stop was super interesting. I had never been so close to so many animals. While I wondered at how ethical the entire operation was, it was certainly a memorable experience.
Mount Rushmore
Pictured: August, Toby and Harper standing under the Illinois flag at Mount Rushmore.
The only thing I can suggest for a trip to Mount Rushmore is that it's imperative that you do everything. This is a smaller park, so it's possible to do it all in 1-3 hours. Watch the video in the visitor center. Walk all the trails. And eat the vanilla ice cream. It's the recipe Thomas Jefferson brought back from France! The kids sat under umbrellas in the rain, filling out their junior ranger workbooks to become sworn in as junior rangers at this NPS site. It was a ball to be so close to such an iconic piece of Americana, all while trying to reconcile ourselves with the fact that this site sits atop lands robbed from the Indigenous peoples who live here.
Pictured: Harper and August are sworn in as Junior Park Rangers at Mount Rushmore National Monument by a Park Ranger.
South Dakota School of Mines and Technology
Our last stop for the day was South Dakota School of Mines and Technology. This college has a beautiful, FREE, Museum of Geology. It is extensive and provides so much to look at for everyone. If you are at all interested in natural history or are traveling with people (and kids) who are interested in fossils or gems, pop into this awesome little museum. It doesn't take long, and you can park directly outside the building (featured straight behind us in the picture below).
Pictured: Harper, Heather and August outside the South Dakota School of Mines and Technology.
Day 5: Custer State Park & Crazy Horse
This day of our trip quickly became my #2 favorite day after our trip through the Badlands. I knew it would be a significant amount of driving, but when everyone says Custer State Park is the BEST state park EVER, they aren't exaggerating. We started our morning at the visitor center. There is a huge map of the park, and there you'll find toy bison lined up where the herd has been hanging out that day. We spoke with the park ranger about the bison's whereabouts, used the facilities, and we watched the very impressive video about the park ("Tatanka"...narrated by Kevin Costner, of course).
We drove the Wildlife Loop and saw pronghorn, prairie dogs, burros (who were so cute!), elk, ...AND ALL THE BISON!
Pictured: Toby and August getting up close and personal with the wild burro.
Pictured: Toby photographing a significant number of the herd of female, juvenile, and baby bison.
We wrapped up our drive of the Wildlife Loop and headed to Needles Highway after using the facilities (see the left of the picture below) that were right next to a herd of bison!
Pictured: Bison herd just east of the facilities at the end of the Wildlife Loop Road in Custer State Park.
We stretched our legs and prepared for another gorgeous drive, albeit very different from the Wildlife Loop road drive. Needles Highway is a 14-mile highway that runs through the northwestern most part of Custer State Park. It is not for the faint of heart, so if you aren't equipped with a hearty driver, perhaps a paid van excursion is more your style. I would highly suggest you measure your vehicle, because once you start up the highway, there isn't really a spot to turn around, and there are three very narrow tunnels through which you must pass. The views are spectacular though!
Pictured: August standing atop a granite outcropping along the Needles Highway.
Pictured: August looking for rocks and Harper photographing the gorgeous views along the Needles Highway.
The part the kids were most excited about though was driving through the famed Needles Eye
Pictured: The Johnson car facing down the Needles Eye Tunnel.
Pictured: Harper, Heather and August standing under the Needles Eye along the Needles Highway.
We made it through all three tunnels and Toby survived the harrowing drive, all while the kids and I ooohed and aaaahed over the views. We ended our drive at Sylvan Lake, which was very busy. We drove around the parking lot twice in order to get a spot, but we eventually made it and settled in with our picnic lunch. From there, we hiked the mile around the base of the Lake. It was unlike anything I had ever seen. The granite was amazing, and I think this will be a place we have to visit again.
Pictured: The Johnson family in front of Sylvan Lake.
Pictured: August rock scrambling on the trail around Sylvan Lake.
After exiting Custer State Park, we drove toward the Crazy Horse Memorial. I had done my research, but I still was struggling to understand how the memorial could be valid and appropriate in these sacred Black Hills. My struggle wasn't wrong. I will scream from the mountaintops that this memorial is viewable from the road. DO NOT pay to see it. It felt disrespectful and glorifying a culture that is still alive and vibrant (although quite ignored). The only good to come of this trip was our food at Dancing Waters, where we had fry bread, bison stew, and nachos.
Pictured: August, Harper and Heather outside the Crazy Horse Memorial.
* Note: This was the ONLyY photo we took here. It just felt yucky. I also feel so dumb that my school sweatshirt has a culturally appropriated feather on our logo...and I wore it to this memorial. ALL THE FACE PALMS.
Day 6: Wind Cave and Hill City, SD
Day 6 started out VERY early. Like, alarm clock early. We were determined to get four, very coveted tickets, into Wind Cave. I had called the Wind Cave visitor center twice since planning this trip, and every time they encouraged us to arrive as early as we could, as lines were forming an hour before opening and tickets for tours were gone by 9-10am every day. I was paranoid we would drive all that way and not be able to get tickets. We arrived by 7:30am (for an 8am opening), and the line was already snaking through the parking lot. Toby dropped me off, and I joined the line while he and the kids found parking. We waited until the visitor center opened at 8, then silently prayed that we weren't too late to get tickets. By the time we got to the front, we were able to snag four Natural Entrance tour tickets (the only tour being offered at the time) for 10am. We killed time by wandering the visitor center, becoming junior rangers, and eating a picnic breakfast.
It's worth noting that the bison bulls that we didn't see the day before at Custer could all be found at the entrance to Wind Cave! They were very impressive!
Pictured: The Johnson family outside Wind Cave National Park visitor center.
Pictured: Harper and August having their work checked to become a junior ranger at Wind Cave National Park.
Pictured: Junior Rangers Harper and August showing off the natural entrance to Wind Cave.
After touring Wind Cave, we spent the rest of the day at the hotel pool and explored Hill City. We happened up the world's largest Smoky the Bear too!
Pictured: Harper and August with the world's largest Smoky the Bear in Hill City, SD.
Day 7: Deadwood, SD, Spearfish Canyon Highway, Belle Fourche, and Devil's Tower
We packed up our items and headed out on the last major part of our great American road trip. Our first stop was Deadwood, SD, where we had pre-purchased tickets for a gold mine tour and panning for gold.
Pictured: August, Heather and Harper outside the Broken Boot Gold Mine in Deadwood, SD.
Pictured: August preparing to enter the mine.
This experience is highly recommended if you have children. The kids were able to take whatever they wanted from the mine in little baggies. They filled their bags with graphite but were encouraged to stay away from the sulfur! Panning for gold was fun, and all four of us managed to get a little to take home (although August dropped his outside and it shattered all over...).
From the Broken Boot, we headed to Mount Moriah Cemetery, where the graves of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane can be found.
Pictured: Heather standing at Mount Moriah Cemetery.
From Deadwood, we traveled the Spearfish Canyon Highway. This scenic drive was also breathtaking, and it allowed for us to get out and explore the waterfalls along the highway.
Pictured: The Johnsons standing in front of Bridal Veil falls.
After winding our way through the Spearfish Falls Canyon Highway, we made a quick run north to Belle Fourche, SD, the [contested] geographic center of the United States.
Pictured: Harper and August at the geographic center of the U.S.
This stop had facilities available, as well as a super cute (and air conditioned) visitor center. While we don't care much about rodeos, it was a fun little visitor center and museum. It made for a nice stop along our journey (and had a penny press!).
From there, we drove to Sundance, WY. Our plan was to tuck in for the evening in our motel, but it was only 2pm, so we figured it would be best to try and head to Devil's Tower. There was plenty of daylight left, and we had our free park pass, so even if it was too crowded, we could always go back in the morning.
Everyone told us the first national monument was impressive and a favorite. Nothing could prepare us for just how alien and unbelievably huge this geological phenomenon was. I cannot wait to return. That's all there is to it...
Pictured: Harper, August and Heather outside the Devil's Tower National Monument.
We visited the visitor center, became junior rangers, and walked the entire base of the tower (in 100 degree heat...!)
Pictured: Harper and August working to become junior rangers under the tower.
The prayer cloths and lack of climbers were a great reminder that this monument is also sacred to the Indigenous Peoples who live here.
Pictured: Prayer cloths tied to trees at the base of the tower.
This national monument was my #3 on this particular trip after the Badlands and Custer State Park. Although all three are so vastly different and hardly comparable, they are all worth visiting again for sure. After hiking the base of the tower and wearing ourselves out in the heat, we stopped for salad and ice cream at the little restaurant/gift shop outside the tower. We considered coming back in the morning, but at this point, we were exhausted. We had been on the road for over a week and were ready to slow it down.
Day 8: The Journey Home
Believe it or not, we were all awake and the car was loaded by 7:30am the next day. We decided to see how far we could make it in one day. We drove quickly through Wyoming, and because the kids didn't get their junior ranger badges at the Badlands, we whipped back through to the visitor center (it was so hard not to stop)! Because we had our Every Kid in a Park pass, we got in free and were able to snag our fourth and final junior ranger badge!
We made it through the super long but beautiful South Dakota, the brief Minnesota, and as we neared Iowa, even though it was close to 5pm, we decided to push through. We were about 4.5 hours away from home by that point and felt we could just keep going. We drove through 5 states in one day from 7:30am (GMT) to 11pm (CST). We fell asleep in our beds in northern Illinois and dreamt of our epic American SoDak road trip!
Takeaways: Do it all. It was exhausting, but the nagging thought of "What if we don't ever make it back here again?" plagued us at every stop, so we embraced everything we could and raced through it all. I would strongly encourage everyone to see the Badlands, Custer State Park, and Devil's Tower. They were all worth another visit for sure.
#Badlands #BadlandsNationalPark #NationalParks #JuniorParkRanger #CusterStatePark #Bison #NeedlesHighway #DevilsTower #MountRushmore #SouthDakota #Wyoming #RoadTrip #TravelWithKids #Hiking #GetOutdoors #FamilyVacation #SummerVacation #BlackHillsNationalForest #BlackHills
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